Download e-book for kindle: Accessorizing the Body: Habits of Being I by Cristina Giorcelli, Paula Rabinowitz, Manuela Fraire, Micol

By Cristina Giorcelli, Paula Rabinowitz, Manuela Fraire, Micol Fontana

ISBN-10: 0816675791

ISBN-13: 9780816675791

The first within the four-part sequence Habits of Being, charting the social, cultural, and political expression of garments as visible in the street and in museums, in movies and literature, and in ads and magazines, this quantity contains a close-up specialize in accessories—the shoe, the hat, the necklace—intimately hooked up to the body.
 
These essays, such a lot of that have seemed within the state of the art Italian sequence Abito e Identità, supply new theoretical and ancient takes at the position of garments, costume, and add-ons within the building of the trendy topic. With contributions through top students in artwork heritage, semiotics, literary and picture reviews, historical past and model reports, and with extra writings via psychoanalysts, fabric artists, and model designers from Europe and the USA, readers will stumble upon a dizzying array of principles concerning the glossy physique and the ways that we gown it.
 
From views at the “model physique” to Sonia Delaunay’s designs, from Fascist-era Spanish women’s prescribed methods of dressing to Futurist vests, from Barbara Stanwyck’s anklet to Salvatore Ferragamo’s sandals, from a poet’s tiara to a worker’s cap, from the scarlet letter to the yellow celebrity: Accessorizing the Body imparts startling insights into how a lot the main modest accent may well reveal.
 
Contributors: Zsófia Bán, Eotvos Lorand U, Budapest; Martha Banta, U of California, l. a.; Vittoria C. Caratozzolo, U of Rome “La Sapienza”; Paola Colaiacomo, U of Rome “La Sapienza”; Maria Damon, U of Minnesota; Giuliana Di Febo, U of Rome 3; Micol Fontana; Manuela Fraire; Becky Peterson, U of latest Mexico; Jeffrey C. Stewart, U of California, Santa Barbara; Vito Zagarrio, U of Rome 3; Franca Zoccoli.

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Example text

6 Two of these cannot escape our attention. Both portray Armani as a five-year-old, with his mother and elder brother, at the seaside. Mrs. Armani wears a simple, dark bathing suit, made especially elegant by a couple of white buttons placed where the shoulder straps join the body of the suit. Obviously, the buttons are only decorative. In one picture, the one where she sits on the sand, she wears a brooch pinned at the center of the neckline of the bathing suit. This feature is even more striking inasmuch as the whole suit is absolutely simple: the accessory is the mark of a personality endowed with a contained but firm ambition.

This genealogy can be traced back to the French Revolution and the end of the ancien régime. ” Then, during the second half of the century, the debate about the artistic dignity of modern dress already signaled a world where body and dress play separate roles. Precisely at this juncture, fashion’s model bodies make their professional appearance. We recapture an echo of the radical change in self-perception produced by the presence of the mediating body of the model on the scene of fashion in Oscar Wilde’s lecture “The Relation of Dress to Art,” delivered in 1885 as a rejoinder to a previous talk by James Whistler on the use of color in portraiture.

This was the Rome that served as backdrop for the fashion shows of the three sisters. Today Micol Fontana directs the foundation that carries her name, located on the first floor of the building that, since 1957, has housed her famous atelier on Via San Sebastianello, near the Piazza di Spagna. She remembers all of her clients/friends warmly, with admiration, with humor, and a few with deep aƒection. I converse with her in her study, surrounded by gowns on exhibition and by photographs on the walls of models (even famous ones) who wear afternoon outfits and evening gowns from that golden epoch: in reality, they are timeless works of art.

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Accessorizing the Body: Habits of Being I by Cristina Giorcelli, Paula Rabinowitz, Manuela Fraire, Micol Fontana


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