By Nelson Algren, David E. Schoonover
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When the baseball game has died away and the whiskey has been downed, dinner is ready and the entire clan assembles. The meat platters are first to movechicken rolled in flour and fried in shallow fat to a rich, crisp brown, baked ham, beef roasted thoroughly to a heavy, tender darkness, gravied meat loaf kept hot for serving on a big camp-range. Chicken is the favorite with ham, beef, and meat loaf following in that order, but most plates receive at least two different kinds of meat. The vegetables which follow include potatoescreamed, scalloped, mashed, and chopped into saladbaked beans, green beans, lima beans, scalloped corn, sliced tomatoes, and fresh or pickled beets.
These were two varieties of doughnuts, both made of the same ingredients but the latter being large, oblong in shape, and slit several times all the way through beginning about an inch from each end, with alternate sections raised. They were familiarly called tangled breeches. The galettes sauvages were about half the size of the croquecignolles and slit through three times. Sections were not raised, the slits taking the place of the hole in the common present-day doughnut. The French also fashioned a tart called pÃ¢tÃ© marraine or Godmother's tart.
And the head was commonly covered with a blue cotton handkerchief folded as a turban. They learned not only to hunt and dress like the Indian but to eat like him. Marquette pronounced the wild oats or the folles avoines of as delicate a flavor as French-cooked rice. The precooked fish and buffalo meat served him by the Peoria Indians on the banks of the Mississippi he found both strengthening and palatable, and sagamitÃ©, mortar-pounded cornmeal flavored with berries and fried in bear grease, he pronounced delicious.
America Eats by Nelson Algren, David E. Schoonover